By David A. Leenknecht, Andre Szuwalski and Ann R. Sherlock
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Additional info for ACES - AUTOMATED COASTAL ENGINEERING SYSTEM - TECHNICAL REFERENCE
Consequently, the nonlinear terms of the free surface boundary conditions are retained in the solution of the boundary value problem. The free surface boundary conditions can be simplified by adopting a moving coordinate The unsteady terms (time derivatives) are system. having the same velocity as the wave celerity. then ehmmated. However, this procedure requires an additional assumption for an initial definition of celerity. The two most common assumptions were originally proposed by Stokes (1847) and are stated below: Stokes Definition 1 (avg horizontal velocity = O) lL J Zo Cnoidal Wave Theory Udx=o Stokes Definition 2 (avg mass flux = O) lL” H udzdx=O (6) ~0-d 2-2-3 ACES Technical Reference Wave Theory The second definition of wave celerity was selected for this derivation.
The latter series length is considered highly desirable for resolving most of the short period Harmonic constants are often available from constituents and eliminating seasonal effects. site-specific studies and from the National Ocean Survey. The accuracy of the tide prediction is dependent upon the number of constituents included in the equation. In the United States, a maximum of 37 constituents (listed in Table A-5, Appendix A) are typically considered. However, in some areas, more constituents are included because of regional complexities.
This sensitivity might account for some of the scatter found in the data; however, it is entirely possible that H ,mq depends on more than the three parameters investigated here. Surprisingly, the scatter was not reduced by including skewness of sea surface elevations in the parameterization. 7863. Here, the weighting has resulted in a fit that will tend H ,mq at lower values of relative depth. 00023 and b remains as before. Breaking Wave Height There are numerous Beta-Rayleigh distribution. 9d To investigate the effect of the choice for breaking wave height on the Beta-Rayleigh distribution, comparisons were made graphically (Hughes and Bergman, 1987), using Equations 20 and 21.
ACES - AUTOMATED COASTAL ENGINEERING SYSTEM - TECHNICAL REFERENCE by David A. Leenknecht, Andre Szuwalski and Ann R. Sherlock